RE: travel to Montreal

[Ed Sieb <sieb...>]

Seth,

I have some other food recommendations. Need to dig them up. Will email
further.

Ed Sieb

"You can take the boychik out of Montreal,
but you can never take Montreal, out of the boychik!"



Montreal The best city in North America. See also:
http://www.montrealgazette.com/newyork/001101/4789248.html
+++

Montreal
Part I
I love Montreal.

What a relief Montreal was after two disappointing trips to Paris. To me,
Montreal is everything Paris should be but isn't. Parisians are rude;
Montrealers friendly. It's getting harder and harder to find a good meal in
Paris for under $200 per person; a bad meal in Montreal is hard to find at
any price. Paris hotels are often old, dirty and expensive; Montreal hotels
are, for the most part, new and economical--and even the most modest B&B is
likely to be spotless. Plus, right now, exchange rates (about $1.45
Canadian
to the U.S. dollar) are so heavily skewed in favor of Americans (remember,
most merchandise costs about the same in Canadian dollars in Canada as it
would in U.S. dollars in the U.S.--with restaurants costing even less) that
it's hard to justify a seven-hour overnight flight to Europe when Montreal
is 50 minutes by air out of LaGuardia. Montreal is, among other things, the
perfect destination for a long weekend.

In Part I of this two-part series on Montreal, I'll give a brief overview
of
Montreal as well as some notes on budget- and mid-priced restaurants,
bagels, delis and the like. In Part II, which should appear sometime in
May,
I'll be covering the haute-cuisine end of the Montreal dining scene. The
two
parts combined should form a somewhat-reliable mini-guide to dining in
Montreal.

Overview
They speak French in Montreal, but getting by in English is an effortless
proposition. The split between primarily-French-speakers (Francophones) and
primarily-English-speakers (Anglophones) is about 70/30, but virtually
every
Montrealer is bilingual, signs tend to be in both languages and nobody
seems
to mind communicating in English (although I think basic rules of etiquette
and common sense dictate that you should learn the basic traveler's
vocabulary--left, right, hello, goodbye, thank you, etc.). Although
American
newspapers have given a lot of alarmist coverage to the Quebec separatist
movement, there is little evidence of this purported undercurrent in
Montreal.

Montrealers care about food. Most people I encountered had strongly held
beliefs about the best bagels, smoked meat (I'll get into the whole smoked
meat thing later), breakfast and bistro. Many Montrealers told me, "We
Montrealers will argue for an hour about the best bagel or smoked meat,"
but, having attempted to engage numerous locals in these debates, I found
that they became fatigued after about two minutes (but maybe that was on
account of talking to me, rather than due to the subject matter). Still,
the
passion is there. Even the otherwise diplomatic souls at the Bureau of
Tourism will break ranks and take sides if asked who makes the best bagels.

It's easy to dine in Montreal. A Montreal restaurant should be a reasonably
familiar, low-stress environment for anybody who has dined around New York.
Tipping is conducted American-style (not included in the bill, with the
local convention around 15%) and the cuisine, in general, should be
familiar
to most New Yorkers. There are some differences, though. On the plus side,
BYO is common in Montreal (look for the signs that say "Apportez votre
vin!"). Also, the vast majority of Montreal restaurants offer the option of
a "table d'hôte" menu (fixed price, limited selections), and, if you're
flexible about what you eat, these tend to be incredible bargains. Montreal
has a lot of restaurants per capita (something like 5,000 in all), which
makes reservations easy to come by--even the most popular spots don't
require much more than a day's notice. On the minus side, taxes are quite
high (although low prices and favorable exchange rates make this arguably a
non-issue, you should still be aware that tax and tip can add more than 30%
to the cost of your meal). As a foreigner, you can get a tax refund on
merchandise (the tax-refund forms are available all over the place), but
not
on food or lodging.

Montreal has the right idea about how to run a city: Have people live
there.
As a result, there are good restaurants all over town--and they tend to be
open late. Near downtown, there are two major restaurant strips, St-Laurent
and St-Denis (running north-south), where you'll find a wide range of
reasonably priced, high-quality food. St-Laurent is the more touristy, but
that hasn't reduced the quality of the restaurants. Two smaller streets,
Prince Arthur and Duluth (running perpendicular to and intersecting with
the
above) contain high concentrations of BYO restaurants. This restaurant axis
runs into the Plateau de Mont-Royal, another good area for restaurants,
which, as Montrealers will tell you ad nauseam, was selected as North
America's fourth hippest neighborhood by the Utne Reader. Montreal also
boasts several ethnic neighborhoods (a Little Italy, a Chinatown, etc.). If
you want to get into deep-Montreal exploration, I'll be recommending
guidebooks, Web sites and other resources in Part II.

Bagels
Myer Lewkowicz, a Polish Jew, was found as a child amid a pile of bones out
behind the Auschwitz gas chambers. He was raised in Germany, became a
baker,
married a German girl and eventually moved to Montreal, where he worked as
a
bakery employee. Eventually, Lewkowicz went on to establish the St. Viateur
(pronounced "san vee-a-tour," rolling the "r," by the Franchphones and
"saint vi-yay-der" by the Anglophones) bagel shop in 1957, while one of his
colleagues, another European Jewish immigrant named Schlafman, opened the
competing Fairmount (pronounced the same by everybody) bagel bakery. Joe
Morena, an Italian, bought St. Viateur a year before Lewkowicz's death
(before that, he had been Lewkowicz's partner for almost 20 years). Joe's
son, Vince, continues the St. Viateur tradition at the newest St. Viateur
bakery (there are four), which also includes a café.

Ask Vince who makes a better bagel--St. Viateur or Fairmount--and he'll
tell
you they're very similar. I agree, but many do not. My wife (who tends to
be
right about these things) became an instant partisan of Fairmount, whereas
the majority of people I surveyed preferred St. Viateur. If anything, the
St. Viateur bagel is a little more rustic and has a little more of that
handmade, artisan look and feel to it. Nobody seems to believe there is any
other contender for the bagel title, so when I speak of Montreal bagels I
mean those from St. Viateur and Fairmount.

What's the difference between a Montreal bagel and a New York bagel? Well,
if you use the traditional, dense, chewy New York bagel as the benchmark,
Montreal bagels are lighter, sweeter and crustier. They have a nice
chewiness, but they are not at all dense. The reasons: Montreal bagels
start
with a more enriched, eggy dough--it almost looks like a batter. The dough
doesn't rise much before cooking. The bagels are formed by hand and boiled
in a honey-and-water solution (where most of the dough's expansion takes
place). This is the point at which sesame or poppy seeds (or other
toppings--although Montrealers tend to be bagel purists and don't go much
beyond these standard varieties) are added. The bagels are then baked--and
I
think the most desirable qualities of Montreal bagels occur as a result of
this part of the procedure--in a wood-burning brick oven. The wood sits on
one side of the oven, the bagels on the other. The extreme, dry heat and
some of the smoke from the wood travel across the curved top of the oven
and
cook the bagels to crusty, near-charred perfection.

As the bagels bake, in shockingly small batches (maybe three or four dozen
at a time) the baker manipulates them with a long plank (called a shibba in
Yiddish), using the human touch to compensate for the unevenness and
unpredictability of the oven. Vince says this is the critical part of
Montreal bagel making. "A bagel is like a snowflake," he explains. "Every
one is different. Hey, I could give you the recipe--it's no big secret,
there it is right on the wall next to the oven--but what would you do with
it? It's the oven and the skill of these guys that makes the bagels what
they are." He adds: "We put a lot of heart into every bagel."

One big thing in favor of St. Viateur: While Fairmount uses a wood oven at
its main store, the wholesale operation (both St. Viateur and Fairmount
sell
to local shops and restaurants) has switched over to an electric oven,
which
I consider a highly objectionable decision. St. Viateur uses brick ovens at
all its locations.

Are they better than New York bagels? I'll certainly admit they're better
than most. I'm not proud of 99% of the bagels served in New York (Montreal,
to be fair, has its share of lousy bagels as well), but, comparing
cream-of-the-crop to cream-of-the-crop, the styles are so different that it
doesn't make much sense to choose one over the other. The standards are
entirely different: Montrealers tout their bagels as light; density is seen
as a flaw. New Yorkers complain that, if anything, most New York bagels are
not dense enough; density is seen as a good thing. My ideal bagel would
probably be a hybrid: The classic New York bagel recipe (I believe density,
to some extent, is a desirable characteristic in a bagel, and I'm not sold
on the brioche/challah-like Montreal bagel dough) but cooked Montreal-style
in a brick oven. But rather than rely upon such equivocal remarks, let's
just say that I did go to the trouble of schlepping a dozen St. Viateur
bagels back to New York with me. And, lest you think this is like bringing
coals to Newcastle, representatives of both St. Viateur and Fairmount told
me that a lot of New Yorkers do the same.

Smoked Meat
Smoked meat is pastrami, as far as I can tell. You'll hear it described by
Montrealers as "a cross between what you Americans call pastrami and corned
beef," "a milder version of New York pastrami," and, often, "a totally
different animal," but, upon cross-examination, I couldn't find a single
civilian or deli-worker who could explain an actual difference between what
we New Yorkers call pastrami and what those Montrealers call smoked meat.
Smoked meat is beef brisket, cured, spiced and smoked. That's what we mean
when we say pastrami, right? Pastrami is still pastrami, I submit, whether
it's cured more or less, spiced more or less or smoked more or less. And
smoked meat is not always so mild anyway, so I'm not sure how that changes
things. If anybody wants to explain this to me further, please proceed.

As in the case of their bagels, Montrealers insist that their smoked meat
is
superior to New York's pastrami. I surveyed the Montreal cyber-foodie
community in advance of my visit and obtained two main recommendations:
Schwartz's Deli and the Snowdon Deli. There are others, to be sure (smoked
meat is ubiquitous in Montreal) but my limited investigation of the
alternatives confirmed that Schwartz's and Snowdon are a breed apart.

Most Montrealers choose Schwartz's, and the smoked meat there is excellent.
It's hand-carved, as at Katz's in New York (see my essay, The Great New
York
Deli Debate, for further discussion of this and other deli issues), peppery
and fatty (you can ask for it lean, medium or fatty; fatty is, of course,
best). A sandwich about two-thirds the size of a Katz's pastrami sandwich
costs $3.50 (Canadian, that is), which is shockingly cheap by New York
standards but doesn't include pickles or anything like that. Schwartz's is
a
tiny, lunch-counter-sized place on rue St-Laurent, a main restaurant drag
near the downtown business district. The countermen and waiters are all
old-timers, with the proper combination of exterior gruffness and interior
cuddliness. In addition to smoked meat, there are several items available
from a real, sputtering, hissing, popping charcoal grill, such as hot dogs,
steaks and calf's liver.

Snowdon Deli is more of a restaurant-type place. Were it not for the
gigantic deli counter on the left (on the other side of a low wall--you
have
to go out the front door and in another door to get from one side to the
other), you might think it was just an old, run-down coffee shop. But one
bite (a whiff, even) of Snowdon's smoked meat is enough to let you know
you're dealing with serious food. As for the debate between Schwartz's and
Snowdon, I can't see any basis for principled argument: The smoked meat at
Snowdon is superior. It's far juicier, more peppery and has a deeper
flavor.
The only explanation I can give you for why Montrealers prefer Schwartz's
is
that Snowdon is way the heck out of the city center, on a nondescript
commercial boulevard near a residential neighborhood. You have to take a
couple of different Metro (subway) lines to get out to the Snowdon station,
and then you have to walk about six blocks. I did this in February, which
wasn't exactly fun (Montreal winters tend to be harsh). So I'm taking the
position that the popularity of Schwartz's is due to a combination of
ignorance and convenience. But don't get me wrong: Schwartz's is great
too--just not quite as good as Snowdon. To the extent it matters, the
Snowdon smoked meat sandwich is a bit more expensive: $4. Both delis,
unfortunately, use a bright yellow, smooth, French's-style mustard, rather
than real Jewish deli mustard.

So, by now, you must be wondering why a place like Montreal, which has all
the indicia of being a totally goyishe city, would have all this Jewishy
food. Well, believe it or not, the Jewish presence in Montreal is
huge--something in the neighborhood of 100,000 people. Jewish history in
Montreal, Quebec and Canada goes way back, and some of the leading families
of Canada (the Reichmans, the Bronfmans) are Jewish. I'm not going to get
into all of it here, but suffice it to say the influence has been not only
culinary but also linguistic. After you've heard a Canadian say, "That was
quite a schlep, eh?" you'll know what I'm talking about.

Hot Dogs
After bagels and smoked meat, Montrealers tend to boast of their hot dogs.
Sorry, but I'm not sold on the Montreal hot dog. Steamed hot dogs are the
order of the day in Montreal, and they're nothing special. Loaded up with
toppings (condiment selections tend to be quite extensive), the flavor (or
lack thereof) of the meat becomes a secondary concern, but I don't see the
appeal of the overall product. At the aforementioned Jewish delis, however,
the hot dogs (Hebrew National or the equivalent) are grilled and delicious.

Breakfast
Where it's cold, breakfast tends to be good. Montreal is no exception--it's
a great breakfast town.

The traditional Quebecois breakfast, as served at super-authentic
East-Montreal dive Chez Clo, consists of a variety of meats (ham, bacon,
sausage), eggs, potatoes, toast and baked beans (like American baked beans,
but sweeter and with more lard), all for $3.50. This is a serious,
lumberjack breakfast sufficient to defeat all but the heartiest eaters.
Another traditional item is creton, a ground-pork spread with the
consistency of chopped liver. I'm probably never going to acquire the taste
for baked beans at breakfast, but I did enjoy the creton. Of the three
versions of creton I tried in Montreal, Chez Clo's was the most to my
liking
(others were too heavily processed and smooth).

L'Avenue, in the hip Plateau, serves a wide variety of omelets, excellent
coffee (the coffee standard in Montreal tends to be pretty high--Second
Cup,
a chain, is the Canadian equivalent of Starbuck's), other breakfast
standards and interesting blended fruit drinks. The atmosphere, of course,
is very hip. The men's room is similar to the one at "44" here in New York,
albeit on a smaller scale. Similar to l'Avenue, albeit not quite as
individualistic or hip, is Eggspectations, a rapidly expanding (for good
reason) chain, which serves fabulous omelets all day.

You can also get a great breakfast at the St. Viateur cafe, where owner
Vince has created a number of eclectic bagel sandwiches ranging from the
Mexi-bagel (with cheddar, salsa and optional sausage) to the Deli-bagel
(with salami, smoked meat and pate), along with standard varieties (bagel
with lox, grilled buttered bagel--the traditional Montreal way of serving a
buttered bagel, with the melted butter oozing around in the nooks and
crannies) and great cafe au lait. The Jewish delis, Schwartz's and Snowdon,
also serve good breakfasts of the salami-and-eggs variety, with lousy
coffee. Finally, the bakery at the Atwater Market (see below) is useful for
continental-style breakfast.

One Really Nice Restaurant
Over the past few months, I've received a few charming e-mails (including a
very thoughtful discussion of the no-show/overbooking problem) from a
Montreal restaurateur named Ilene Polansky. While in town, I decided to
depart from my budget theme to check out her upscale (but, actually, not
too
expensive) seafood restaurant, Maestro S.V.P.--something she probably
didn't
think I'd ever do. I had a good feeling about the restaurant the moment we
entered, and I was pretty sure Ilene was the woman behind the bar who
seemed
to be overseeing the whole operation (that later proved to be true when I
introduced myself after the meal).

Maestro S.V.P. (that's an abbreviation for s'il vous plait, or please) has,
according to some local newspaper and magazine articles in the entryway,
the
only full-fledged oyster bar in Montreal. The oysters, nearly a couple of
dozen varieties, are pristine and presented with great flourish--and the
rest of the seafood follows suit. In addition to raw oysters, you can get a
fabulous Roquefort-based version of oysters Rockefeller as well as oyster
shooters made with cranberry vodka. Several of the menu items are
fusion-oriented, but always within the bounds of reason. A big wedge of
ginger-glazed hamachi sits atop purple potatoes surrounded by colorful
garnishes on a big, orange plate. Squid-ink linguini is served with smoked
salmon, vegetables and half a lobster. Chowders are also nice--not too
goopy/creamy, as is often the case. And the chocolate/chestnut mousse cake
is not to be missed. The table d'hôte menu, which changes every day, is
around $25 at dinner and includes a choice of two appetizers, two entrees
(including both of the above on the day I went) and coffee or tea. It's
even
less expensive at lunch, usually under $18. A la carte items are quite
reasonable as well, with most appetizers under $10 and most fish entrees in
the mid-twenties. This is a small, service-oriented restaurant that, placed
in New York, would be full every night (in Montreal, in February, we had no
problem walking in without a reservation, but I'm told reservations are a
necessity in the warmer months).

I can't recommend this place highly enough. It's a restaurant that does
everything right, and, for some reason, I didn't find it mentioned in the
major guidebooks (probably because most focus, lock-step, on the same few
places), even though every local foodie I encountered was in love with the
restaurant.

Markets
In addition to great restaurants, Montreal has serious produce markets. The
Atwater Market is the prime example. In winter, it's mostly indoors, but,
when it gets warmer, the place expands to full-blown Parisian scale. Even
in
winter, La Fromagerie, the nicest of the cheese shops, has over 400
varieties including some gorgeous raw-milk specimens from France and Quebec
(at some point, I have to track down the story behind an incredible
Quebecois raw-milk goat cheddar that I sampled). The proprietor is as
enthusiastic about cheese as any three Frenchman.

A grand bakery, Premiere Moison Boulangerie has excellent, flaky croissants
(when the Parisians come to the New World to re-learn the art of
croissant-making, they should visit this place), about a million other
kinds
of bread and prepared foods--including a number of game-based pates (I
tried
reindeer, which was surprisingly flavorful if not exactly something I'd eat
every day).

There are other markets all over Montreal, covering many styles and ethnic
groups. One worth noting, primarily for its convenient location, is the
Fauborg Ste-Catherine, a kind of gourmet downtown food mall right on main
drag Rue Ste-Catherine. It's a bit modern and antiseptic for my tastes, but
it's the perfect spot to acquire the makings of a picnic lunch.

A Few Others
You heard it here first, because I happened to eat there on one of its
first
days of business: The Cafe at the Musee de Beaux-Arts is a terrific,
peaceful spot for a downtown Montreal lunch. It goes almost without saying
that the place is attractive (it's on the second floor of the modern
Jean-Noel Desmaris Pavilion), but it's also comfortable and the food is
both
delicious and well priced. They told me that the chef also runs a respected
restaurant outside of Montreal, and I believe it. His duck confit is
superb,
his sandwiches beautiful and his desserts even better. The only misses were
mediocre French onion soup and a few service/timing glitches--but I chalk
that up to the newness of the restaurant. A small, tasteful wine list (with
several by-the-glass selections) completes the meal. Admission to the
museum, by the way, is free (voluntary donation, that is, plus charges for
some special exhibits). I'm confident that, if properly publicized, this is
going to become a favorite lunch spot of the downtown business community.

I mentioned BYO (I guess it would be AVV in French) restaurants, and one I
visited was Gargantua Pantagruel. I mention it not because it's a fantastic
restaurant but, rather, because you get a lot of decent food for a very
attractive price. The place reminds me a little bit of Les Sans Culottes
here in New York. For around $20 (that's like $14 to you and me), you get a
four-course meal. You begin with a basket of whole vegetables and
hard-boiled eggs on the table, which you cut yourself and dress with a
ranch-like dressing. Then you go up to the appetizer bar, where you can
take
several kinds of salami/pepperoni-type items and crusty French-style rolls
as well as pate and a few different salads. Entrees are a bit uneven. The
scampi were great, the steak was so-so, and the salmon was barely edible.
Creme caramel was nice, as were sorbets, but I don't recommend the cakes.
After all that, you get some little chocolates. I hasten to add that
BYO/AVV
is not only allowed but encouraged and welcomed with open arms (ice-buckets
are cheerfully provided for white wine, etc.), and I'm told this is the
case
at most such places.

Stash, the most popular (and also the most expensive, albeit still quite
economical) of Montreal's Polish restaurants, is a worthy spot for lunch or
dinner if you're in Old Montreal. The "buffalo grass" vodka is one of the
best, smoothest flavored vodka's I've ever tried. Most of the food (which
is
more East European than specifically Polish) is good, although perhaps not
up to Brighton Beach or East Village standards. The best dishes are the
more
unusual ones (the gloppy, stew-like concoctions are superb) so be sure to
consult your server for recommendations. Service, provided by tall, blond,
black-clad waitresses, is excellent and friendly.

Downtown, for a quick bite, don't forget the great Canadian institution of
Movenpick. This place, located in the heart of downtown, is perfect for
groups (especially families) because there is so much variety. It's a
cavernous, self-service restaurant with stations arranged by theme
(Italian,
sandwiches, Asian, soups, etc.). You get a "passport" when you enter and it
gets stamped each time you get food or drink. You pay at the exits. The
food
isn't the best in the world, but it's simple, fresh and economical.

Across the street from hip l'Avenue (see the above discussion of breakfast)
is the even hipper Misto (to accentuate its hipness, the "i" is written
upside-down, as an exclamation point). This place serves shockingly good,
simple Italian food of the gourmet-pizza variety. The beef carpaccio
appetizer is worthy of some sort of award, the salads are big and fresh,
and
the mini-pizzas and not-so-mini calzones are surprisingly tasty (most are
punched-up with a little bit of pesto).

I have a profound weakness for fondue and I would therefore be remiss in
failing to point out that, while Manhattan currently lacks a single
dedicated fondue restaurant, Montreal has several. I inspected only one,
Fonduementale (pun intended, but not by me), but they all seem to have
similar menus. You'll see something called Chinese Fondue all over town.
This is a meat fondue (exotic game meats are available at some
establishments) served with a bouillon-based solution rather than the
oil-based one you'll typically see elsewhere. Cheese fondue and chocolate
fondue (my favorite) are available as well.

Finally, if I have one regret about this visit to Montreal, it is that I
didn't go a week later. Each year, in late February, the Montreal
Insectareum (a combination museum and insect-zoo near the Olympic stadium)
hosts an insect tasting. I'm told it's one of the most popular culinary
events in Montreal, with up to 2000 participants (human participants, that
is) in a single day. And the selections are not just of the run-of-the-mill
fried-grasshopper and chocolate-covered-ant variety. They even have stuff
like bee-larvae pate. I missed it this time around, but I'll be back.



Bagels


St. Viateur
Original bakery:
263 St-Viateur O.
Tel. 514-276-8044
Cafe:
1127 Mont-Royal E.
Tel. 514-528-6361


Fairmount Bagel
74 rue Fairmount O.
Tel. 514-272-0667


Smoked Meat


Schwartz's
3895 St-Laurent
Tel. 514-842-4813


Snowdon Deli
5265 Decarie
Tel. 514-488-9129


Breakfast


Eggspectations
Locations at:
1313 Maisonneuve O
Tel. 514-842-3447
198 Laurier O
Tel. 514-278-6411


l'Avenue
922 Avenue Mt-Royal est
Tel. 514-523-8780


Chez Clo
3199 Ontario E
Tel. 514-522-5348


Other


Fonduementale
4325 St-Denis
Tel. 514-499-1446


Gargantua Pantagruel
3873 St-Denis
514-843-6317


At the Marche Atwater
Premiere Moison Boulangerie
3025 St-Ambroise
Tel. 514-932-0328


La Fromagerie du Marche Atwater
134 Atwater
Tel. 514-932-4653


Maestro S.V.P.
3615 St-Laurent
Tel. 514-842-6447
http://www.minet.ca/~maestro/index.html


Café des Beaux-Arts
Jean-Noel Desmarais Pavilion, level 2
Musee des Beaux-Arts de Montreal
1380 Sherbrooke O
Tel. 514-937-4898


Movenpick
300 Ste-Croix
Tel. 514-748-6027


Stash
200 St-Paul O
Tel. 514-845-6611

+++


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-jewish-music (at) shamash(dot)org
> [mailto:owner-jewish-music (at) shamash(dot)org]On Behalf Of Seth Austen
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 11:26 AM
> To: World music from a Jewish slant
> Subject: travel to Montreal
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I hope everyone is having a wonderful Pesach! (my favorite part
> has always
> been the horseradish, even as a kid)
>
> I am traveling from New Hampshire to Montreal this weekend for the First
> Annual Throat Singing Festival, to participate in various concerts and
> workshops in overtone singing styles of Tibetans, Tuvans and Inuits. It
> should be lots of fun. Freygish khoomeii, remember when it is
> the next big
> thing, you heard it here first.
>
> Does anyone have recommendations of anything Jewish music related that I
> should check out during my free time? Or old Montreal Jewish
> quarter? Good
> vegetarian kosher food? etc? Thanks,
>
> Seth
>
> --
> Seth Austen
>
> http://www.sethausten.com
> emails: seth (at) sethausten(dot)com
> klezmusic (at) earthlink(dot)net
>
>
>

---------------------- jewish-music (at) shamash(dot)org ---------------------+