Tsimbl Cases

[Peter Rushefsky <rushefsky_p...>]

For your reading pleasure, here's more information than you ever wanted to know
about buying and travelling with tsimbl cases.

Enjoy,
Pete Rushefsky

From:   Robin LaPasha <ruslan (at) acpub(dot)duke(dot)edu> |    
Subject:        cases   
Hi all,

I'd been watching for some less-expensive santouri cases, until 
recently without much joy.  I just got a case, and think that
maybe if you're considering one you might like the benefit of 
some prior research...

But... I hate getting big amorphous email messages too.  (And
this one is certainly big.)  So that you don't have to wade 
through (or skip it) wondering whether to read it, I'll tell 
you the topics in advance. ;^)  This message is divided into 
several major subjects:

        Airlines and Cases
                (size limits, insurance, negotiating, specs)
        Manufacturers
                (CDM, Maxline, etc.) 
        Other options
                (homemade cases, bike cases...)
        Theft

Now you can decide whether to go on (and I'm back to the intro...)

My goal has been a flight case, i.e. a metal-framed plywood box 
with some kind of water-repelling plastic outside, foam inside, 
handles, twisty locks, corner bumpers, a big strong hinge, and 
roller wheels.

The standard case from the custom makers includes 1/4" plywood 
with an outer ABS-plastic laminate, aluminum framework, and 
recessed handles and latches.  They're lined with foam (esterfoam, 
ethafoam, etc.).  These cases vary between about 30 and 55 pounds.  
So go weigh your instrument before you start--my santouri weighs 
25 lbs., but my heavy-duty gig bag would add 5 lbs..  Try to 
keep the case alone at 40 pounds or less, to get it and your 
instrument through baggage check on a plane.

I didn't include the santouri stand in my specs--legs, cradle,
or dampers.  I also didn't use my gig bag inside the case... 
partly because we have to consider the maximum single-item size 
for getting the box into a Honda hatchback.  On the other hand, 
for someone with a van, fitting the gig bag inside the case 
might be very important.  Your mileage will vary.

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Airlines and cases:

I am not a person who would do well 'hoping' to be allowed to 
carry-on my instrument to an airline closet, or to gate-check 
it in just a gig bag.  I don't think anybody who has anything 
more exotic than a basic hammer dulcimer would stay sane that 
way, either.  It's just my opinion--and why I don't talk about 
non-case options for airline travel.

1. Case size limits -

For everyone taking a case with them on a plane trip:  Keep 
the total dimensions under 100" and total weight under 70 lbs..  
Measured as the sum of the length, width, and depth, any case 
(and most bare dulcimer-type instruments) will come in with 
total dimensions technically over the regular-size 62" limits.  
United and Midway accept boxes measuring up to 115" as a 
separate category of 'oversize baggage,' but some US airlines 
have reduced their total 'oversize' dimension limits down from 
100" to 90", and Continental is even using an 80" limit.  My 
own case (for a small, bare instrument) could be measured at 
up to 75", so everyone needs to consider these limits--and fees.

Having this larger-than-62" box means you could be subject to 
"oversize" luggage charges, if the airlines decide to impose
them.  Those charges can be between $35 and a whopping $75 
(on Delta, American, and Continental, for example) each way.  
An American agent on the telephone noted that "the weight is 
more important than the size," but made no specific promises. ;^)  
My experience with other luggage, and those of other players
taking their cases on planes is similar: 
        If your box makes the 70-lb limit and one agent can heft 
        it to the conveyors, it probably won't be scrutinized.  
The only person I've heard tell of paying had a 90-pound case.

International flights can have special rules and fees.  
British Airways lists a basic 'excess baggage' rate of 85 
pounds for a one-way New York to London trip.  (Some years 
that could be $125 or more in US dollars.)

So--consider the lifetime price of shipping due to the case's 
weight and/or size when buying a case.

Another reason to avoid a more-than-70-pounds case is that you 
may get into an "air freight" or "air cargo" scenario.  Air 
freight or cargo for us would mean... it doesn't necessarily 
travel 'with' you, like baggage, but is instead 'shipped' as 
a package.  You may have to go back to the airport's cargo 
terminal later to pick it up.  (One guy reported using an 
overnight delivery service to his destination, rather than 
deal with the air cargo charges or pickup hassles.)

2. Insurance -

The usual domestic baggage damages limit is $1250, but most 
international flights have limits of only $640.  You can 
usually buy more insurance direct from the airlines--so check 
in advance as to whether you need to.  Basic homeowner's or 
renter's insurance may have exclusions--or just not be enough 
to replace your instrument.  Check to see if you need and/or 
can afford a special 'rider' on your policy, that covers full 
replacement of a damaged or destroyed instrument (wherever it 
could happen).

If you are a semi-professional or professional musician who 
travels regularly with your instrument, you may want to consider 
joining the American Federated Musicians Union "Local 1000" (a 
kind of web-based union) because they have significant instrument 
insurance coverage available.  (http://www.local1000.com/)  They 
seem to be oriented towards the low-budget folk musician crowd, 
though perhaps not quite low-budget enough for ethnic musics. ;^)  
I think us amateurs are out of the loop on this one, though. ;^)

3. Negotiating -

When presented with 'odd' non-clothing luggage, the airlines may 
insist tha the passenger to waive damage claim rights in advance.  
There is something about these "Limited Release" forms on the 
baggage check which the passenger is asked to sign if the article 
is "fragile."  Well, for some airlines, musical instruments are 
listed as fragile no matter what bombproof ATA case they're in.  
One guy claims to have bluffed his way through with: "Write down 
'Passenger Refused to Sign'", but that could also provide the 
airlines an excuse to bump you from your flight.  Other folks
just sign.

Many who have discussed the issue in Dulcimer Players News and 
on email lists recommend arriving early, and then advising the 
agents and crew that you'd like to "gate-check" the instrument.  
(To 'gate-check' an item means it gets loaded last (i.e. on top) 
and unloaded first.)  But most of them are talking about 
dulcimers in just gig bags. (Geez.)  So asking that your 65-
pound humongous box get gate-checked may just annoy people...

4. Case styles, specifications -

A "flight case" can have different meanings to different 
manufacturers.  An "ATA (Air Transport Association) flight case" 
can range from a 'short life' one or two-trip design, a 'category 
II' 10-trip design, or a 'category I' 100-trip design.  Some 
manufacturers haven't gone through the official testing.  While 
they may well use the same materials and construction of the 
big-name brands, they use the term "ATA Style" flight case since 
they haven't got the test results to back it up.

I've noticed that some of the ATA-spec'ed (100-trip) cases use 
3/8" plywood instead of 1/4"--and the case becomes so heavy 
that it's a real burden.  (A case with 1/4" plywood may use 
17-20 lbs. of wood; would 3/8" plywood add 8-10 lbs. and put 
your case over the 70-pound limits?) 

It gets back to what you need and think you can deal with.  If 
you're doing touring gigs every week, you ought to get full-ATA 
"category 1" (100 trips).  If you might use a plane once a year 
and would like to worry less about your instrument when packing 
the car, maybe you could get by with less.  Other folks fit in 
between.

If you'd like a look at 'things that nice cases have',
you can view pictures on at least three websites:
        - Custom Cases' pictures at
                http://www.CustomCases.com/heavy/standard.htm
                (I don't know any more about these guys),
        - Anvil's information and pictures via
                http://anvildealer.com/main2.htm - and
        - Maxline's "hardware" page via
                http://www.maxlinecase.com/

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Manufacturers:

1. My best case price quote was from the makers of Pete's case 
(which we all ogled last summer at camp) - CDM Manufacturing Inc..
Advance disclaimer--I ended up getting my case from them, and am 
a pretty happy customer.

        For a box about like his (wheels, 1" minimum foam inside, 
plywood/ABS sides, 37-39 pounds) they quoted a price of around 
$230 (plus NY tax if it applies) plus about $15 shipping down 
the East coast.  (My Bras instrument is a little smaller than 
Pete's, so it was a little less money.  I'm giving an average 
price here.)  I also got lockable latches (I don't remember 
whether Pete's were) for sending it as airline baggage. 
        I ordered two handles on the opening side, because I 
knew darn well I couldn't safely heft 65 pounds in one hand. 
With two, I can grab both handles, bring the case onto my legs, 
and go from there.  If you don't think you'd get arm/shoulder/back 
problems from the weight, you can think about skipping it.
(But there also seems to be some consensus that a single handle 
might pull out; Maxline Custom Cases apparently felt that way.)
        If you mail them a full-size tracing of the santouri 
outline, they can custom-cut the foam to fit (Pete's foam cutout 
was square).  I also highly recommend adding a pair of 'handles' 
to the tracing, and have them make a pair of cutouts there in 
the foam along the sides of the instrument.  That way you can 
reach in, grab the instrument, and pick it up without digging 
around in the foam for it.  (One of Kostya's good ideas.)
                  ___________
                 /           \
               -/             \-
             / /               \ \
             -/                 \-
             /___________________\

They included extra foam for us to use over the pin blocks 
(which we'll glue in place on the top, once we figure out where).  
That way we can make sure that the strings and bridges (the 
'highest' parts of the instrument) don't get the extra pressure 
(from the weight of the instrument) if the case gets flipped 
upside down in transit.
        Nice little details include:
                - 'bumper-feet' on the side/end opposite the 
wheels... to make the case sit level on the ground.  ('Recessed' 
wheels stick out about an inch; these are to compensate.)
                - straps to hold the lid, so that it doesn't 
fall open and bang on the floor (and stress the hinge).  
Musical instrument cases usually--but not always--have them.
                - on the latches, you have locking options of 
either tubular-key locks or loops to put padlocks through.

        CDM promised to take just about a week to make (and 
about another to ship, UPS Ground).  It actually got _to_ me 
in a week.  But then I had to send it right back for a wheel 
replacement (at no charge).  Folks who charge twice the money 
also have some foulups (you'll see below).  I like the case.
(I _could_ work up a low-resolution image and send it in 
private email, but really... cases all look pretty much alike.)

You can scope some of CDM's general 'case' options at 
        http://www.cdmmanufacturing.com/
or call them at 1-716-649-5925.  They are a little unorganized
at the moment because they're moving next door, but they seem 
to know their stuff when you can catch them.
        They have email but I'd recommend phone instead.  
They don't have Visa/MC yet but they hope to get an account 
soon.  I was working with Dana Wilcox.  CDM has a same-number 
fax capability, and we faxed a simple contract back and forth.  
(I have been burned by other non-credit-card vendors before, 
so I specified some basic pre-agreed price/feature/measurement 
information... it was probably unnecessary, but good for my 
own state of mind.)

-     -     -     -     -     -     -     -     -     -     -
Case colors -

Pete Rushefsky's case is black, but as he puts it, "I was 
advised [after purchase] by a couple of well-travelled 
musicians that they prefer to get white cases because airport 
personnel subconsciously think white objects are more fragile 
and handle them with more care.  You can be the judge of this 
musical pop psychology."

Well, here in the South I don't get a black car or a black case 
if I can help it (heat retention), but... I'd think white would 
get pretty cruddy, pretty quick. (Especially at camp!)  There 
are other colors.  To me, a case color _is_ important, because
it'll be a big box, that you hopefully look at for a long time.
(Heck, you can use these pups as low coffeetables if you have 
the floor space.)

CDM's colors "include black, red, white, slate blue, dark blue, 
med. blue, green, yellow, gray, [brown], purple, wine and orange."
        I recommend the "slate blue," which would have been my 
second choice.  The "medium blue," on the other hand, is more 
an "electric aquamarine" or "astrobright". ;^)  Fun, but...
        The (charcoal) gray, brown, and wine are... very 
'corporate' and boring.  Guys and shy players may like them.
        (I don't know about the other colors; these are ones 
I asked for color chips on.  If you're planning to order and 
really conflicted I can send you an email attachment with a 
scan...)
        I chose the purple (a "plum" or "grape") but with the 
knowledge that besides being a big box in a bright color ;^)... 
it's also susceptible to UV fading.  My only concern is that my 
case could be mistaken for property of the Psychedelic Furs. ;^)

If you're in a region where sports rivalries are fierce (but your 
own feelings aren't), you may want to avoid local 'team colors.'
For me locally, that's certain blues, and red.  I've noticed that 
the rest of the country isn't always so crazy that way, though.

-     -     -     -     -     -     -     -     -     -     -
Other places I've checked for cases (you can contact me for details) -

2. Lise Liepman has a really excellent case (plush velvet-lined 
foam, lotsa recessed handles) from "Maxline Custom Cases" of 
Oregon.  Their prices (as of late spring 2000) range from $400 
(foam, unlined) to about $460 (plush-lined), plus shipping (which 
can be $50 or more to the East Coast).  They are very very nice 
cases, though.  Margaret Loomis also got a Maxline case, but says 
that it took them a second try to get the instrument cutout the 
right size.  Lise's case was only 33 pounds, if you need low-weight 
options.  (http://www.maxlinecase.com/, 1-888-262-9546)

3. "Big Deal Cases" offered a custom "Fiberlex" case for $350.00, 
plus another $45 for wheels, 27 lbs. before the wheels.
(http://www.bigdealcases.com, 1-880-337-3325)

4.  ROCK HARD ROAD CASES offered the standard box for $350 plus 
shipping from Oregon; weight about 40 lbs.
(Mark DeHart, ROCK HARD ROAD CASES, 1-800-574-2305)

5. Some local-to-me folks, "US Case Corp", likewise had the 
standard box for "just under $300, wheels would make it $350."
(http://www.uscase.com, 919-783-6166)

6. Anvil/Calzone's quote came in at $520.00 and 55 lbs. (ouch).
They've just advertised a holiday sale, but I didn't see anything 
but briefcases on special at their website.
(info (at) anvildealer(dot)com or 1-800-600-1953 PIN 2009, 
http://anvildealer.com/main2.htm)

7. The MasterWorks Dulcimer company (Russell Cook et al, in TX)
makes a $399, 38 lb. flight case for their dulcimers (which is 
probably too small for santouris with the bass D--internally it's
45" x 19" x 5") and they will make custom cases (probably for 
more $$$).  (http://www.wnsdulcimer.com, 1-888-752-9243)

8. Cadence Cases are available to order through the local Mars 
Music outlet, but their MSRP for what _might_ be an appropriate 
box would be $500, and they think the weight's 40 lbs..
(Information from cadence (at) cadencecases(dot)com, cases sold through 
large music chains...)

9. SKB only has one lined box that _may_ be deep enough (the 
SKB-5820W Keyboard Case) but that has an extra 8-10" on the end 
which makes it about as tall as I am.  (i.e. 58" x 20".)  With 
wheels it's 34.5 pounds, about $380 depending on who's selling it.  
They have a new extra-wide "stand case" now that is 20" x 50", 
but I don't know if it's got any foam inside.  Either'd be a 
tight fit even for my little instrument (18"--gives minimal 
room for foam). (Information from Delena Nordstrom 
<Delena (at) freedmusic(dot)com>, cases sold through large music chains)

10. In Spring 1996, Dulcimer Players News had a letter from a 
(local) guy happy with an aluminum Zeigel (Ziegel?) Engineering 
case.  Shipping would be from (Long Beach) CA.  Normally they 
make instrument and gun cases.  I didn't call. (1-310-596-9481)
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Other options I've considered, besides custom cases -

Tom Pixton built a padded plywood santouri case for a Texas 
gig last year.  They suggest adding some corner reinforcement 
bumpers (available at hardware stores, or also at the Mars 
Music outlets as replacement parts) for airline handling, but 
it seemed to protect effectively.  If you... have one weekend 
before the gig (and don't have time for a pro maker) or you 
have lots of time and think you can make a great box for less 
than $250, it may be worthwhile.

Bicycle cases are normally $250-$275.  Performance Bicycles 
put theirs on sale for $199 a few months ago (and maybe it 
could happen again; check at http://www.performancebike.com/
or see competitors at http://www.pedalpack.com/caseline.htm 
and http://www.bikenashbar.com/). The cases are not square, 
not completely stiff, don't all have a hinge for the lid, the 
pull handles are kinda lame, and you're not going to get a 
form-fit.  You can convert it to a roof rack, but it's dark 
(i.e. it will collect heat in summer sunshine--not good for 
instrument care).  If you wanted to have a big travel case 
and roof rack that you could maybe put your santouri in (and 
pack your laundry around?) sometimes, it might work for you.  
Especially if you're big into bikes. ;^)

I've looked at some double-width rifle cases, ski/snowboard 
cases, etc., but didn't see anything of the right size.  
(With those cases you may also get into airline-theft problems 
that I note below.)

Kostya built me a 'travel-weight' mini-santouri with a form-
fitting lid, strapped it closed, and we put it into my luggage 
for a stay in Russia.  It didn't last too well (a little _too_ 
lightweight in the rails and bracing to hold up to the string 
tension) but at least I had something to practice on, while I 
was alone and halfway across the world.  (Be sure to declare
your instrument as you fill out international customs documents!)

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Theft:  For any case you get, beware the story of professional 
hammer dulcimer player Robin Petrie (in Dulcimer Players News, 
Spring 1991, describing a 1985 gig).

She had a dulcimer in an Anvil keyboard/synthesizer case.  
Any nice case--especially a brand-name one like Anvil or SKB--
is a theft target at and 'through' airports.  Some airports 
and major airlines have luggage theft rings; Robin Petrie's 
dulcimer (and its case) were stolen when being transferred 
at the Honolulu airport (the stopover on a California-to-New 
Zealand flight).  She was able to play her gigs by having a
team of friends overnight a new dulcimer from Seattle--but 
we wouldn't all have such luck...

My personal idea is to affix somewhat dorky bumper stickers
to the case, that indicate its non-keyboard, non-electronics,
non-fenceable-item nature.  In the best of worlds we'd have 
"Cimbalom World Association" stickers (with a logo that 
actually looked interesting instead of their generically 
technoid graphics), but we can probably actually find stuff 
like "Dulcimers Forever!".  (I'm actually in the process of
trying to design a nice sticker.  Stay tuned.)

But, now that I have a brand-new case it's a little harder 
to bring myself to actually put bumper stickers on it. ;^)  
Maybe I'll wait until:
        - I'm about to take it on a plane and need to, or
        - it has a few scratches, scuffs, and stains to hide. ;^)
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Hope this has been helpful for some of you.  It did take some 
research on my part, which I may convert into an article or web 
page in the future (I'll let you know)--so please don't pass it 
around without attributing me as a source.  (So I don't make 
the same bad--I got lots of useful information this year from
Lise Leipman, Margaret Loomis, and Pete Rushefsky. ;^)  And 
they very nicely gave their permissions to use the information.)

Robin

Robin LaPasha
Duke University Slavic Dept.
ruslan (at) acpub(dot)duke(dot)edu      

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