Groucho Marx and Chasen Senem

[Joshua Horowitz <horowitz...>]

Chasen Senem

This title has been an enigma ever since it was first discovered from a 78
recording by the Jewish cymbalom player, Joseph Moskowitz [19 July 1916]
reissued by Rounder CD 1126. The tune itself is a Turkish melody which is
almost identical to the Sephardic Turkish song, Mi demandas (You demand of
me). Moskowitz¹s rendition is a simple solo against a typical klezmer
terkisher rhythm (eight dotted sixteenth plus 2 eights) Stu Brotman recorded
it on cymbalom on the first Brave Old World record, and I have recorded it
on tsimbl for Belgian, German and Austrian radio.

Many theories have arisen as to what this title means. Some thought that
Chasen was one of those common slap dash record label mis-transliterations
of Khasene (Jewish wedding). Others thought it to be a misspelling of any
number of phonetically similar words.

While reading some of Groucho Marx¹s letters to Goodman Ace (1951), Groucho
remarked that he saw the baseball player and former wife of Marilyn Monroe,
Joe DiMaggio at the well known restaurant, Chasen¹s in Hollywood owned by
Dave Chasen. Entertainers, Jewish and otherwise have performed there for
private occasions (i.e. singer Sammy Goldstein). Ed McMahon would eat there
with the producer of The Tonight Show, Freddy de Cordova, and Ardis and
William Holden considered it their favorite hangout, often seen huddled in
the third booth to the left in the front room. On March 25, 1995, John Reid
and Jeffrey Katzenberg hosted Elton John's 48th birthday party there. The
event was one of last parties at Chasen's. On April 1 1995 the restaurant
closed.

As far as the word Senem goes, this has created more confusion. In Turkish
it is a common woman¹s name, so the most logical explanation of Moskowitz¹s
use of the word would seem to refer to a woman at Chasen's side. After all,
it was a Turkish tune. Combinatorially, we could then arrive at ³Dave
Chasen¹s Turkish girlfriend Senem,² hence ³Chasen¹s Senem.²

However, upon further research, it turns out that there is a Latvian potato
and wild mushroom soup called ³Kartupelu zupa ar senem.² Of course, research
would need to be done into the matter to determine whether in fact, Chasen¹s
actually served a Latvian Soup of this type. Whether or not this task will
ever be undertaken, I prefer to believe that the title of the Moskowitz
recording meant nothing more than the delicious soup served at Chasen¹s
Hollywood Restaurant, resulting in

Chasen¹s Senem (Chasen¹s Latvian Potato and Wild Mushroom Soup)

Even A nakht in Gen Eden, may, by this token be nothing more than a good
dinner at Sammy¹s in New York. I leave this matter to more serious
researchers, and conclude with a recipe for the soup and the reminder that
the seemingly random titles of certain klezmer tunes may in fact be nothing
more than mere tributes to mouth watering dishes. Josh Horowitz

******************************
Latvian Potato and Wild Mushroom Soup

Thick, rich, creamy, and laced with sweet paprika, crispy bacon, and pungent
wild mushrooms. Serve hot to 6-8 people--it's a proper meal in itself,
served with good bread and salad.

* 1 ounce imported dried mushrooms, rinsed and soaked in 1 cup warm water
for an hour (cepes/porcini are best, but Asian mushrooms will also work)
* 5 cups water
* 2 teaspoons salt
* 6 russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
* 4 slices of bacon, finely diced
* 1 onion, finely chopped
* 3/4 cup heavy cream
* 1/2 teaspoon sweet Hungarian paprika
* white pepper, to taste

Garnish: chopped fresh dill

Filter the mushroom liquid to remove impurities, then add it, the rest of
the water, and the mushrooms to a large soup pot, and bring to a boil over
high heat. Add salt, reduce heat, then simmer for 30 minutes. Add the
potatoes, raise heat to medium, and cook until the potatoes are tender,
about 20 minutes. Remove from heat.

Fish out the mushrooms, let them cool for a minute, then chop them roughly
and set to the side. Fry the bacon crisp in a separate skillet, then drain.
Pour off all but a Tablespoon of bacon grease--and add the onion and
mushrooms to it. Sauté over medium heat for about 15 minutes, until the
mixture is nicely browned. Stir the bacon back into it.

Meanwhile, Purée the potatoes with a cup of broth, then whisk the potatoes
back into the pot, beating hard to remove any lumps. When the bacon mixture
is ready, bring the potato soup back to a simmer, add the cream, and let
heat for several minutes, until the soup is about to boil. Stir in the
mushrooms, bacon, and onion, season with paprika and pepper and adjust for
salt.

When ready to serve, ladle into bowls and garnish with fresh dill.

Serving Suggestion:

Play Chasen Senem in the background while enjoying this savory repast.

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